An American designer and jeweler whose work blends modern aesthetics with a rich family history and cultural traditions. She has continued her family’s legacy, but in a contemporary way. Her pieces are not just jewelry; they are symbols of culture, art, and attention to detail, combining style with ethical production. Read more on i-los-angeles.
Biography
Buhai was born in Los Angeles to a family with creative roots: her mother is a psychotherapist, and her father is a comedy writer. Her great-great-grandfather was one of the first residents of Hollywood, having immigrated from France in the 1880s, and relatives on her mother’s side include the famous writer Gertrude Stein.
Sophie attended Marlborough School in Los Angeles and was a California Arts Scholar. At 18, she moved to New York City to study at the School of Fashion at Parsons School of Design, which became a launching pad for her career in fashion and jewelry design.
Vena Cava
In 2003, after graduating from Parsons, Buhai and her classmate Lisa Mayock founded Vena Cava with an initial $5,000 loan. Both were working in vintage shops at the time and initially ran the business out of their Brooklyn apartments.
The brand’s style was eclectic, drawing inspiration from early Hollywood, Biba, and the hand-drawn prints that became its signature. Vena Cava quickly gained a cult following within New York’s independent fashion scene. The clothing line was carried in 120 stores worldwide. In 2008, the brand was the runner-up for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund.
After the Vena Cava project ended, the founder returned to Los Angeles and took a break. It was during this hiatus that the idea for her own jewelry collection was born. She began experimenting with jewelry, and soon, these experiments turned into a business.
The Sophie Buhai Jewelry Line
The Sophie Buhai brand, founded in 2015, immediately established itself as a creator of high-quality jewelry and accessories designed to transcend time and fashion trends. Each collection combines minimalism with surrealist elements, adhering to thoughtful proportions and scales that make the pieces both recognizable and versatile. From its debut series of modern interpretations of traditional modernist silver jewelry, the brand became known for its use of pearls and onyx. Initially, Buhai worked exclusively with silver. She created a series of surreal silver egg-shaped pendants and hand-carved stone earrings, blending the spirit of Elsa Schiaparelli and Elsa Peretti with a modern perspective. To bring her ideas to life, she enlisted artisans from the Downtown LA Jewelry District, though she has no formal training as a jeweler. The collection later expanded to include 18-karat gold pieces, but hair accessories also play a significant role in the business. The first was the Elegant Scrunchie in silk with a silver tag, which she created for herself but quickly gained popularity. Since then, she has released series of sculptural headbands and combs.
Sophie Buhai’s collections are divided into seasonal, experimental series with sculptural silhouettes and semi-precious stone accents, and a permanent core collection that includes classic and versatile pieces. In 2021, the range expanded to include a line of fine jewelry and functional objects that double as miniature 18-karat gold sculptures. All pieces are designed in the Hollywood Hills and handcrafted in downtown Los Angeles by local artisans.
Every Sophie Buhai piece is created with longevity and environmental responsibility in mind. The brand’s silver and gold are recycled and responsibly sourced, and the semi-precious stones are also chosen with care. Many pieces are made to order, which minimizes waste and reduces the carbon footprint. Local production supports the community and cuts down on resource use. Almost all jewelry is created by experienced Los Angeles artisans using traditional handcrafting methods. In cases where special techniques or materials are required, the brand partners with responsible overseas workshops but always strives to produce the majority of its items locally.
Her work is featured at leading international retailers such as Matches Fashion, Net-A-Porter, Dover Street Market, SSENSE, Moda Operandi, and Mytheresa, as well as in museums and art institutions, including the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum and the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum. The pieces are sold through her own website and specialty stores like The Line, as well as museums such as the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum and Cooper Hewitt. The founder is inspired by the style of famous female artists of the past and even imagines that Georgia O’Keeffe might have worn her jewelry. In the 21st century, the brand’s pieces have been chosen by stars like Zoë Kravitz, Ayo Edebiri, Jennifer Lawrence, Greta Lee, Solange, and Kaia Gerber. But Buhai was most touched by the reaction of Ruth Bader Ginsburg, who wore her silk scrunchies and lightweight hoops.
Jewelry Objects
In 2025, she presented a new collection in Paris that blends jewelry art and object design. The event took place at the legendary Galerie Anne-Sophie Duval. The “Jewelry Objects” exhibition was curated by Julie Blum. This exhibition symbolizes the 10th anniversary of the Sophie Buhai brand and marks a significant creative milestone for the designer. In the collection, she presented 19 unique and limited-edition objects, including seashell-shaped pocket mirrors, bud vases, a magnifying glass made of bronze and crystal, silver pillboxes and toothpick cases, and curved knives. The pieces combine surreal forms with high-precision craftsmanship.
The collaboration between Buhai and Blum began in 2022. They share a passion for decorative arts and Art Deco. Buhai’s collection blurs the line between art and everyday items: her works were displayed alongside furniture and antiques.
Buhai’s jewelry and design practice demonstrates a unique approach: a fusion of function, craft, and aesthetics that makes her creations not just adornments, but objects that shape the owner’s daily life.
Collaborations with Major Brands
From 2015 to 2017, Buhai created jewelry collections for the French fashion house Lemaire. In them, she combined contemporary design with classic jewelry-making techniques. This experience allowed the designer to solidify her status as an international jeweler and expand her audience of admirers.
Sophie later returned to Los Angeles, where she lives with her family. Her creativity and style are deeply woven into the cultural context of her hometown, and her family history and the influence of Hollywood’s artistic environment shape her unique worldview and aesthetic. Buhai merges heritage with modernity, creating pieces that reflect cultural memory, individuality, and contemporary trends. Sophie is a prime example of how family history and personal hard work can build an international brand. Her work continues to inspire design connoisseurs worldwide, and the name Sophie Buhai has become synonymous with modern, conscious, and aesthetically perfect jewelry design.